Palm Beach Post Food Reviews

Saito's is the place in CityPlace for the fish-loving family.

Sure, Mark's and Tsunami are elegant destinations, and Cheesecake Factory offers some dandy seafood, but the informality of Saito's and the show the chefs put on at the hibachi tables will make everyone in the family comfortable, young and old, sushi lover or not.

On one visit we shared one of the dozen or so large hibachi tables with a family of four. We loaded up with sashimi and sushi, along with just a couple of dishes from the grill. The family -- two little kids included -- loaded up on stir-fried dishes. The little kids were in awe of the chef as he tossed and twirled and juggled his cooking utensils. The parents enjoyed their stir-fry. We enjoyed our sushi. It is a place, as they say, with something for everyone.

As with many CityPlace eateries, it's cavernous inside, high ceilings, faux stone trim way up there in the rafters, a couple of stone Buddha statues gazing down from the corners. The hibachi tables are on a raised section, more private booths and other tables below, a bar to one side. You'll find a good selection of silver and gold sake to enjoy at that bar. And quite a few Asian beers, including my favorite, Asahi, 16 ounces ($5.95) served ice cold.

The selection of sushi, sashimi, temaki (hand rolls), hosomake (seaweed on outside rolls), and Saito's special rolls is quite simply staggering. Dozens upon dozens of selections. If it swims and can be hooked, it will land here. Sushi and sashimi boats, for two to four people, are available from around $40 to $78.95. From a single serving of marlin ($2.50) to the Saito boat for four, and everything in between, you're bound to find something to love.

We did. Among the many offerings we tried -- California rolls, seaweed salad, seared tuna salad, salmon, spider roll, all marvelous -- our catch of the night was an order of four pieces of blue fin tuna ($7.95 per piece, special). Simply fantastic, as soft as, yes, butter, and imbued with the most subtle hint of fresh salty sea air. The coolness and freshness reminded me, after a fashion, of sorbet -- a treat for the tongue. A bit of blond, thin-sliced ginger on the side added bite, but really, this tuna needs no accouterments.

If you're in a chicken or beef state of mind, grab a seat at the grill and dig in. Both the chicken and medium shrimp in our combo plate were tender, flavorful, and almost sweet. Preceded by a soothing bowl of miso soup ($2.50), augmented by that delicious seaweed salad ($5.95), this was a light meal three could share. Although green-tea ice cream is available for dessert, we suggested to the waiter that a fruit sorbet or two be added to the menu, as the ultimate finish to this meal.

I made a return trip, alone, and saw another side of the place, and I liked it: The lone diner is welcome here, no looks from the staff as if to say, "Oh, a single diner, where can we put him?" I enjoyed a peaceful meal of chicken udon noodles ($9.95), an Asahi, bowl of miso soup, and a couple of pieces of broiled eel. Across the room, a party of eight businessmen was toasting some sales success with sake. Up on the higher level, families took in the chefs and spinning utensils. It's a rare place where everybody, single or in a group, can feel so at home.

With the advent of Saito's, dining at CityPlace just got better.

 

Saito's Japanese Steakhouse
700 S. Rosemary Ave.
Wets Palm Beach, FL 33401
Phone: (561) 296-8881